When I told a friend I was headed to Taiwan for three days, she told me it's on her top 5 travel list - of places never to visit. The first four were North Korea, Iraq, Syria and Libya.
Officially called the Republic of China, Taiwan is recognized as an independent country, much to the "real" China's chagrin, by 20+ UN member states. Tiny compared to the Mainland but Taiwan is still as big as perhaps England, and I spent 3 days exploring the capital Taipei City and it's surroundings.
A 5 hour red eye flight from Singapore got me to Taipei's Taoyuan international airport and thanks to a US visa stamp on the passport , I was exempt from visa requirements. I took the express bus to the Taiwan Main Station, from where my hotel was a short walk.
My first thoughts on the place were that it seemed like a cross between Hong Kong and Singapore: the liveliness of the former and the cleanliness of the latter. My first destination of the day was the hot springs town of Xinbeitou. I took the metro to Beitou station, and from there a fancy shuttle train running between Beitou and Xinbeitou (xin meaning new) . The train had colorful and stylish chairs and interactive displays of the tourist attractions on offer.
It didn't take much time for me to be impressed by this country. Discipline with respect to getting in queue was fantastic. No one on the train took the reserved seats, even when there were no kids, pregnant women, elderly or disabled around. All stations had coin changing machines, lockers of all sizes and maternity rooms. All public areas were spanking clean, and there were separate trash cans for recyclable and non-recyclable items. A strong network of public buses, vans and trains meant fewer cars and less traffic: I didn't have to use a taxi to get anywhere.
The thermal activity area at Xinbeitou was only a short walk away from the station. I took a quick peek into the cultural center featuring a display of the life of the aborigines living between the coast and the mountains in the central plains.
A little further up the hilly road were public hot baths, an orchid garden and a thermal pool bubbling intensely with sulphur activity. At the edge of town, at the foot of the surrounding mountains was an old Japanese Shinto shrine, the Puji Temple.
The place had it's share if tourists but wasn't overcrowded. But barring one lady from Australia, everyone was of Oriental stock: Taiwanese, Mainlanders, Japanese and Koreans. Taiwan isn't on anybody's radar in the west. I don't think it's a place worth flying halfway around the world for, but if one lives in Singapore or HK, it's definitely worth a visit. Despite being akin to an alien, I only got the odd quick glance from the locals, quite unlike my trip to Indonesia where the locals' favorite pastime is to get clicked with foreigners, even though they see seem frequently.
My next stop of the day was the seaside town of Tamsui, it's chief attraction being it's Main Street lined with food stores, boutiques, colonial buildings and Chinese temples. The heat and humidity meant I wasn't in the mood for too much exploration, but nevertheless paid a visit to the highly recommended colonial-era Fort Santiago. A stone's throw from the water and at a slight elevation, it was the British consulate general's residence for a while and had on display fine Victorian era furniture in its rooms.
A short bus ride from the fort got me to the Fisherman's wharf , a complex of modern restaurants by the water attracting the locals for sunset . It was just past noon yet, but I couldn't fathom how a sunset with big merchant ships along the horizon could be romantic .
In the afternoon I visited the Chiang Kai Shek memorial hall, a massive white Chinese style building with a blue roof, inspired by the temple of heaven in Beijing. Inside, the CKS statue was flanked by two guards dressed in blue uniforms.
A wide walkway surrounded by gardens extended from the memorial to the gates on the opposite end of the complex , and on either side of the walkway were the National Theater and National Opera. These were near mirror images of each other, styled like a Chinese temple, replete with red and gold with dashes of blue and green. It was heartening to see that performances were scheduled for what was a Saturday afternoon, and families with young kids were flocking there to enjoy theater and music.
I took an hour's nap at the hotel and then made my way to Lungshan temple. My hunch is that the Taiwanese are more religious than the Chinese diaspora across the globe: an intense fervor pervaded the temple, much stronger than what I felt in say Beijing, Penang or Hong Kong.
I had heard a lot about the delicious streetfood in Taiwan, but being a vegetarian I didn't live myself a chance of trying much. Part of the problem was figuring out if something was vegetarian: few spoke English and I wasn't carrying my "no meat no chicken no fish no seafoodno egg" card that helped me greatly on my mainland trip. But to my pleasant surprise this almost turned out to be a gastronomic trip.
One of the most famous night markets in Taiwan, the Raohe street market, was right adjacent to the Lungshan temple. Now the name "night market" conjures images of street markets in Thailand where foreigners congregate to shop for souvenirs, organic soaps and "I love Phuket" t-shirts, and get a fish spa or massage. However, in Taiwan a night market is a place where the locals unwind after a long day of work, eat a lot, throw darts, rifle-shoot balloons and perhaps do a bit of shopping as well.
I tried a Bhutta with a twist: instead of being scrubbed with a dash of lime and masala, it came with a coating of peanut sauce, and was quite delicious. I had a taro-filled bread roll which was ok and then filled up with fried tofu and a complement of veggies which was respectable. Having spend two years in Singapore I had never tried bubble tea: I gave it a shot here and while it's not something I would have often again, I did enjoy that serving.
The last destination of the day was the Taipei business district, dominated by the unique shape of the Taipei 101 tower. There were the usual big malls with their food courts and designer stores. I was still quite hungry after all the walking through the day and had a slice of New York style cheese pizza before retiring to the hotel for the day.
My first destination the next morning was the Yehliu Geopark, a site of interesting rock formations caused by the combined actions of the sea and wind, going by interesting names such as Queen's Head and Fairy's shoe. It was a Sunday and this place was fairly overrun with local tourists, and there was a long queue to take a selfie in front of the Queen's Head.
Next stop was Jiufen, a booming mining town during late 1800s-early 1900s, and now a tourist town for those aching for a slice of life from the past. Its main attraction was the Jishan shopping street, a winding cobblestone alley situated atop a ridge. There were the usual souvenir shops, but the main draw was food. The star attraction was the famous Pineapple cake, which I sampled but didn't really like. Another bestseller was a curious concoction: a thin pancake rolled over a scoop of ice-cream topped with crushed peanut. I tried one and did not dislike it, but the flavours did not seem to work too well together.
A short bus ride up the hill was the town of Jinguashi, where I visited the Gold Museum. Within the museum, there was the residence of the Japanese Prince, a mining tunnel which was now meant for tourists, an art gallery, and the usual cafes and gift shops. A few hundred steps above the museum was the remnants of a Shinto shrine, with the remaining pillars reminiscent more of a Greek ruin rather than a Japanese temple.
As dusk, I returned to Taipei City to see the Confucius and Paoan temples which stood in adjacent blocks.The Confucius temple was closed for worship but one could still walk in and stroll in the courtyard and the main hall. The Paoan temple, one of the most important temples in the city alongside the Lungshan temple I visited the day before, was ornate and colourful and had quite a few devotees.
The last stop of the day Shilin Night Market, the largest one in Taipei. It didn't mean more shopping, just more food and more gamestalls. Nevertheless, I bought a pair of shoes for Jyoti and a bib for Ishaan. I was very hungry by now and first up had what can be best described as a fluffy paratha with herbs. It was quite appetizing even sans any filling, for which there were only meat options. Next up was a mixture of beans, moong, rice, and a couple of jellies, topped up with shaved ice. It was tastier than it sounds, and healthy as well, and offered much needed respite from the humidity. A group of young Taiwanese women who spoke fluent English were at the same stall and it was good to have a flowing conversation after a couple of lonesome days.
The next dish I tried was like a kachori wrapped in a chapatti, except that the kachori didn't have any filling. This one was a big thumbs down. The dessert for the evening was fried milk: a few cubes of solidified milk (not sure if it was made using a process similar to that of paneer) dipped in a milk based sauce, and then flash fried for a few seconds in oil to produce a slightly crunchy golden exterior to cover the gooey filling.
I had planned to visit some museums and art galleries the next day, but it was a Monday and like many other cities globally, Monday was the day off! The palace museum was open and it contains the world's largest collection of Chinese artifacts, but I was put off by reviews of large tour groups making it a noisy place. Instead I headed to Huashan 1914 Creative Park, a factory turned retro-chic destination with designer boutiques, stylish restaurants and art galleries. There were quite a few exhibitions going on, albeit with steep entry charges and displays only in Chinese, catering to children and youth. There was a lego play area, an exhibit of stuffed animals and one featuring displays about some famous local comic book franchise I obviously hadn't heard about.
That was it, and it was time for me to head back to the airport. This wasn't by any means a great trip: nothing that I saw or experienced was a must-do. You don't expect much, no one else is heading there, and you come back with these little memories you want to write about before you forget!
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