Day 1: Fly to Delhi, train to Haridwar
We flew into Delhi in the evening and having some time to spare before our train to Haridwar, we went for dinner to Bukhara, ITC Maurya's signature restaurant that has been rated as India;s best for quite a few years. While the famed Daal Bukhara was similar to what you get at other places, say Peshawari in Mumbai, the Onion Kulcha and then the Phirni would count as the best I've had. We then headed to New Delhi station to board the Dehradun train. One of our fellow passengers helped to book a cab to pick us up at the station the next morning
Day 2: The banks of the ganga
Our train chugged into Haridwar at 4 am. After having a nice chai by a roadside stall, we headed towards our camp. En route we passed through Rajaji national park, and had to spend a half hour outside its gates as Elephant crossings overnight necessitate that the park is closed dusk to dawn. The road was mostly along the Ganga valley. Even for the unbeliever, the Gangetic banks before it hits the plains, is unlike any other place of earth: the beautiful water, small towns every few miles built around the ashrams, dharamshalas for the devotees, foreigners dressed in Sannyasi attire who have made India their home. After breakfast at the camp, we drove to Laxmanjhula, walked across the cantilever bridge to the other bank, and drove upstream to Shivpuri, where the rafting trip started. The rapids such as Roller Coaster, Three Blind Mice, Golf Course, were exhilirating. The water was too cold for me to body surf, but Jyoti had a jolly good time taking a dip. I did gather enough courage to do a cliff dive though.
We were back at the camp in time for lunch, and after a snooze, attended the Aarti at Ramjhula in the evening, now considered as to be nicer than the one at Haridwar.
Day 3: Onto Mussoorie
After breakfast, we headed towards Mussoorie via Dehradun. En route we stopped at Sahastradhara, where one can take a dip in sulphur springs, considered to have medicinal properties. Too cold for me though! There are also some caves where it is supposed Dronacharya used to live. As we made the ascent towards Mussoorie, I realized why it is called the Queen of the Hills: perched atop a cliff, with a view of the Doon valley to the south and the himalayas (gangotri, yamunotri, kedarnath and badrinath peaks) to the north, dotted with British era heritage properties and some of the best schools in the country. All this means it is very crowded too, especially Mall Road, the hub of shopping and eating. We were staying at the Padmini Niwas, well known for its Gujarati food. Our room was in the heritage wing, much nicer than the ones in the Annexe part of the building.
In the evening we took a stroll along the picturesque Camelback Road. This is one of the best walks I have encountered. The walk is quite secluded, quite opposite to the humdrum of Mall road. The slopes are dotted with British era bungalows, and across the valley one can see the snowcapped Himalayas. The name Camelback road comes from a rock formation that can be spotted through a clearing in the foliage. Thereafter we took a trolley to the highest point in town, where there was a carnival on of sorts (the boisterous side of Mussoorie). Too often I hear the complain that tourist places in India are very crowded, but I realized then that for every Mall Road, there is a Camelback road: one has to make the effort to walk a bit and discard the shopping instinct.
Day 4: Snuggled up in bed
We visited the Country Garden in the morning, which had a toy train and a small bond with duck shaped paddle boats, reminiscent of vacations as a boy. Lunch was at Nirulas (how we both hate and love to have a well known chain while on vacation!). We then picked up a few books at the local book store. I picked up a copy of Ruskin Bond's "Time Stops at Shamli and Other Stories", and then the shopkeeper replaced it with an autographed book. These little unexpected things when you travel make it more special. It started pouring and got quite chilly by late morning, we ordered a room heater and spent most of the day reading.
Day 5: Kampty Falls
The rough weather continued today as well, but we decided to get out for a bit and headed to Kampty Falls, considered one of the best in the region. It wasnt a bad sight, and would be much nicer post rains: the dozens of chaiwallahs and stores around was an eyesore though and for me, they have ruined the place. Back in Mussoorie, we had dinner and then headed to Dehradun station for our overnight train to Kathgodam
Day 6: Bhimtal, Naukachiatal, Mukteshwar
At Kathgodam station, we hired an Alto cab for the next four days we were in the Kumaon region. Half an hours' drive from Kathgodam is the biggest lake in the region, Bhimtal. As the name suggests, there is a temple dedicated to Bhim near the lake. The surrounding hills are barren though and there is a lot of construction activity around, which doesnt make for a great view. We had a nice Maggi breakfast by the lake and got a tour in a rowboat.
More scenic is the closeby Naukachital (meaning the lake with nine corners), which has little habitation around. We took a paddle boat round the lake for a bit, and then drove on to Mukteshwar. We were staying at the Mountain Trail, which had nice views, good food and service, and a well stacked library, which served us well as it poured all afternoon and we stayed indoors.
Day 7: Mukteshwar Temple, Ranikhet
Our cab guy had taken the previous day's money, and sure enough, didnt show up today. Moral of the story: always keep a certain amount unpaid. After spending an hour to find a replacement cab, we visited the Mukteshwar temple. A local guide showed us around and introduced us to the plants and trees in the area. There was some rappelling and rock climbing going on at the adjacent overhanging cliffs, also called chauli-ki-jali. We then drove onto Ranikhet: if there was a dreary mountain road, it would be this: bad stretches of road, barren landscape, no views. I was beginning to wonder why was Ranikhet so sought after. I got my answer soon as the barren land gave way to gorgeous pine forest. We passed the picturesque cantonment area onto our hotel, the Holm Farm.
One of the best places I have stayed at. 100+ year property, few rooms, all differently designed (ours was the best, the Elizabeth suite), view of Trishul and Nandadevi from each room, a cliffside tennis court, owner's bungalow in the adjacent plot, 2 kilometres of unpaved road leading to the farm. Perfect place to laze around, and enjoy the food and views. Or if you want some activity, as I did, trek up the Chaubatia garden, through a secluded path through the forests.
Day 8: Gethia
We left Ranikhet after breakfast and reached Gethia, a small town half an hour from Nainital, and checked into the Two Chimneys Lodge, recently covered by Outlook Traveler as the best new lodge in the Himalayas. And I'd say rightly so. The place was on the main road, and the views nothing to write home about, but the property scored very high on aesthetics. Meals were by the pool, evening beer on the machan. All rooms had a distinct feel to it, with names like "study", "goat shed" etc. We had got an upgrade to a suite. I'd rate the Holm Farm higher due to the view and location, but this one was Jyoti's favorite. And still is, inspite of the fact that we encountered a snake (I think it was a cobra) while chilling out at "Lands end", a sit out by the cliff. A vacation is supposed to mean no television (dont watch it in any case), but I couldnt miss Sachin's only IPL century. For a moment, I'd rather have been in Mumbai (Wankhede) than Kumaon. There wasnt much to do in the area: we lazed around, did some reading, played some scrabble.
Day 9: Nainital, onto Corbett
Post breakfast, we drove on to Nainital. Crowded again, but still very pretty. I'd say a lot of new hill stations have come up in the past few years, but the old favorites, though getting overcrowded, are definitely prettier if only you could visit in the slow season. We did some rowing on the lake and then headed to Corbett national park. The descent from Nainital towards Kaladhungi and then driving through the sal forests towards Ramnagar was awesome.
Day 10: Safari time
We had booked well in advance to be on the Dhikala (the best of the zones in the park) morning safari. We saw a herd of 10-12 elephants, but no luck with the tiger though. The canter took us deep into the jungle upto the Dhikala Forest House (this is the place to stay to really enjoy the forest and for the best chance of sighting early morning or close to sunset) and back. It didnt seem that the guides were even trying to hear calls or track footprints. In the evening we took a jeep safari to the Durgadevi zone. I'd say this is a scam. In 2 hours, we barely saw 3-4 deer. I cant imagine there would be tigers in that zone. We saw dozens of sambhar, barking deers, spotted door on the main highway back from the safari. While not the best place to spot a tiger, the Corbett jungle is a treat in itself. We then headed to Ramnagar station to board our train to Delhi, and then took the early flight back home to Bombay, reaching in time for office.
If only I could venture out like this every alternate month!
good one. the pic of ranikhet pine is a sight to behold. especially if it comes after a stretch of barren landscape. wish you had shared more such pictures.
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ReplyDeleteJust added an option to tweet or like. Thanks for your interest
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