Egypt (Dec 2009)

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Egypt is certainly not a hot favorite as a honeymoon destination. December would have been too cold in Europe or North America, we looked at New Zealand and South Africa, but had only 8-9 days. Hotels at destinations like Maldives were either super expensive or unavailable, it being the Christmas and New Years period. We had to pick a spot, and decided on Egypt: tickets were easy to get, and most importantly, the weather would be the best that one can get in Egypt.

Unlike most travellers to Egypt, atleast from India, we decided not to take the cruise. Some of the top cruises were sold out, plus in general my view was that these Nile cruiseships were not as luxurious as Ocean Liners, and I had heard that food could be a problem.

Day 1: We have an early morning Egypt Air flight to Cairo. It would be the first time I would step on African soil, and the first time Jyoti would be out of Asia.
Egypt Air was a little like Air India: a Govt owned behemoth that should be dismantled, but probably wont happen anytime soon. From Cairo airport, we took a connecting flight to Aswan (the gateway to Nubia, the southern part of Egypt) and checked into the hotel by the evening. There seemed to be few tourists in town: not many people visit Aswan and most of those who do are on the cruiseships. It was probably a good thing as we could experience an evening in a typical small Egyptian town. After asking a few people, we found a roadside eatery selling delicious falafel sandwiches. There was no nightlife to speak of in this sleepy little town and we called it an early day.





Day 2: We wake up an 4 am, in time for the minibus pickup for the trip to Abu Simbel. There is nothing to do or see in Abu Simbel except one thing, but what a magnificent site it is: Two massive rock temples on the banks of Lake Nasser, made in 13th Century BC to commemorate the victory of Pharaoh Ramesses II over Nubia. Since Abu Simbel is located close to the Sudan border, the travel from Aswan happens in a convoy protected by the Army. The drive itself is long (3 hrs+) and enchanting, witnessing the rising sun painting the barren desert of rock and sand in warm hues. We got there at around 8 am, as the statues of Ramses and his wife Neferteri glowed in the morning sun. It was very windy, and we wondered how intact these temples remain, facing the vagaries of nature. We then headed back to Aswan around lunch time and proceeded to the Aswan Dam, one of the crown jewels of Egypt. Built in the 1960s, the Dam has a significant impact on the economy and culture of Egypt.




In the afternoon, we visit the Temple of Philae, situated on an island on the Nile River. The temple was initially located further South, but was then relocated to Aswan. Aesthetically, this was probably the prettiest place we visited in Egypt, as the water around added so much to the charm of the place. Most of the rest of Egypt would rather be described as grand or imposing or awesome.



In the evening, we took a romantic "felluca" cruise on the Nile, a traditional wooden sailing boat, watching the sun go down over the nearby hills. This was time to contemplate the enormity of what we had seen and what lay ahead in store for us for the next few days.


Day 3: Edfu, Kom Ombo, onto Luxor

The car we had booked to take us to Luxor did not show up. We hitched a ride with a group of Americans, who lived in Istanbul and were visiting Egypt for a week. Having lived in NYC for 5 years and visited other parts of the US, I hit it off with the party. Our first stop enroute was the temple of Kom Ombo on the Nile. Part of the temple is dedicated to the crocodile God Sobek, the God of fertility and creator of the world. By now, we have been approached by many locals who first asked us if we were Indian, and then profess to know the Bollywood icon Amitabh Bachchan personally.
Like a lot of places around the globe which dont have much of a local film industry, seems Indian film stars are quite well liked in Egypt.

The next stop, further downstream on the Nile (the Nile flows south to north, so we were heading downstream as we headed North towards Luxor), was the town of Edfu, which housed the Temple of Horus (the Falcon headed God), the most well preserved of all temples in Egypt.



Once in Luxor, a nice clean city, with plenty of good hotels and restaurants, we first had lunch at a rooftop restaurant (the best hummus I had on the trip, and great coffee) and then headed to the Temple of Luxor during dusk, as the temple was brilliantly lit. It was built in 14th century BC, commissioned by King Amenhotep III, completed by Tutunkhanum and then added to by Ramses II. It was an awe inspiring experiene to walk along the central corridor of the temple, flanked on both sides by huge walls, tall statues and imposing columns and obelisks. After the Luxor visit, we visited a handicrafts emporium and bought some papyrus paintings depicting the Egyptian Gods and Goddesses, and the Kings.

Day 4: Luxor

An action packed day (reasons later). We had booked a daytrip to the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens. The Valley of the Kings is essentially a collection of tombs of various Egyptian Pharaohs. When you reach the site, all you first see is barren slopes. It is impossible to anticipate what is in store, as you enter a tomb and are enthralled by the finesse and color of 3000+ year old paintings on the wall and the ceilings. This is when it struck me that color was an integral part of Egyptian culture, which provided a much needed contrast to the barren desert. The paintings depict all kinds of Egyptian themes: the various Gods and Goddesses, Kings and Queens, death and the afterlife, birds, animals and fish etc. The corridors were long and deep and there was a lot of dust, but it certainly was a once in a lifetime experience.

As we were exiting one of the tombs, Jyoti twisted her foot. It was nasty. She would hobble through the rest of the trip. At one point, it crossed my mind to head back to India. But this was our honeymoon, she wasnt going to entertain that thought.




The next stop was Queen Hatshepshut temple, the only female Pharaoh in Egypt's history. This is where a good part of the song in "Singh is King" was shot. I had to explore the nooks and corners of this place alone as Jyoti could go only so far with her bad foot. After the temple, we visited the Valley of Queens, which has similar tombs but smaller and not se well preserved, and then the Colossi of Memnon, two massive stone statues of Amenhotep III, built 3,500 years back.

Once back in Luxor, we headed to the Karnak Temple Complex, a vast mix of temples, chapels, pylons and other structures. It is the largest ancient religious site in the world. There was an overload of the tall, the huge, the heavy.. The temple was added to by various Pharaohs, for close to 1500 years. Unfortunately Jyoti couldnt see much of it.



In the evening, we decided to head to a rooftop bar. The problem: a place that was well recommended had no elevator. So I had to carry Jyoti in my arms for four flights of narrow steps. As we reached the top, the guys who had given us a ride to Luxor were having drinks, and I got a round of applause from them for the feat! We had a really good evening with these guys: they were all talented and very well traveled and had great stories to tell. Some of the guys had been to India or would be visiting soon, so there was a lot to talk about that as well. Later in the evening, we boarded the Abela Egypt, a luxury train from Luxor to Cairo. It really wasnt too luxurious and not much cheaper than a flight, makes sense to take it only if convenient.

Day 5: Cairo, the Pyramids

As the Abela express chugged Cairo in the am, we wondered how much we would be able to explore the city given Jyoti's injury. As with anyone visiting Egypt, the number one priority was to see the pyramids at Giza, the oldest of the seven wonders of the ancient world (more than 4500 years old) and we wanted to visit them on camelback. We had the hotel arrange everything for us: we took a cab to the camel camp, and then headed to the majestic, massive pyramids, three of them towering over some smaller ones: Khufu (the largest), Khafre (a touch smaller) and Menkaure (quite modest, comparatively speaking). Khufu is about 140 metres tall, weighs 5.9 million tonnes, its volume is 2.5 million cubic metres and is made up of 2.3 million blocks. If almost every superlative was applicable to a structure, it would be this. Its not pretty, its just a simple shape made of stone. There is no carving, no color, no gardens around it, its just a breathtaking masterpiece of engineering.



The camels could take us only so close to the pyramids, after which we had to walk over quite uneven ground. So I had to take Jyoti in my arms: it made for a good picture opportunity with these massive structures in the background.

The thing about these Egyptian monuments is that there really is no connection between ancient Egypt and modern Egypt: different religion, different culture. If you visit Istanbul, Bangkok, Agra or Rome, you see a continuity between the past and the present: none of that here. Cairo was in fact a dull city: we couldnt quite figure out why the houses were not painted from the outside, all cars looked more than 20 years old and traffic was bad. We were to go for a dinner cruise on the Nile that evening, but got stuck in traffic and had to head back to the hotel.

Day 6: Egyptian Museum, Khan-el-Khalili market, Nile Cruise

There was no way Jyoti could have walked around in the museum, so we did the next best thing and got her a wheelchair. There was so much to see and admire, but we decided to concentrate only on the Tutankhanum collection, the largest assimilation of objects every buried with a monarch, and arguably the richest archaeological find of all time. It wasnt that he was the greatest Pharaoh: in fact he died young and didnt get much of a shot at greatness. But just as plunderers in the medieval world destroyed many of the tombs at Luxor, his tomb was buried deep and escaped ravage.


After the King Tut collection, I went to the mummy room (Jyoti skipped it considering a sordid affair) which quite justifiably, had a seperate entrance fee. Quite amazing how to see how well (comparatively speaking) the bodies have been maintained. One is surprised to realize that these people were small in stature.

We then headed to the Khan-el-khalili market. Prospect of shopping gave Jyoti a burst of energy in her tired legs. Very touristy, haggling over prices a must, but great to just stroll around and look at things for sale: carpets, chandeliers, sculpture, alabaster, jewellery, leather, you name it, they got it. We bought a stone carved bust of a Pharaoh, as well as a set of four Canopic jars. (The Canopic jars, each having a lid as the head of one of the minor funerary deities known as the Four Sons of Horus, were used as containers to hold the internal organs of the deceased who was going to be mummified.






This evening we managed to reach our cruise ship on time. There was good entertainment on board: a live band, some belly dancing, whirling dervishes. But we spent more time on the upper deck enjoying the banks of the Nile. How central the river is to this land!! It made me think of the importance of Ganga in India, though there are other big rivers in India too who are revered.


Day 7: Alexandria

Time to leave the Egyptian monuments behind and explore a bit of Greece and Rome. The road from Egypt to Alexandria was very different from the others: there was a lot more vegetation, as one moved away from the Saharan desert and closer to the Mediterranean. Alexandria, founded in 4th Century BC, was the capital of Greco-Roman Egypt. Its lighthouse was one of the wonders of the ancient world, and its library the largest of the ancient world.

We first headed to the Roman Catacombs, also known as Kom al-Shofaqa, consisting of a multi level labyrinth, reached via a large spiral staircase, and featuring dozens of chambers adorned with pillars and statues. This was probably my first introduction to Roman architecture, and I soon made trips to Turkey and then Italy. We then headed to Pompeii;s pillar, a Roman triumphal column. It is about 100 feet tall and its shaft is made of a single piece of granite.



Our next stop was the Citadel of Qaitbay, situated at one end of the crescent shaped shore hugging the Mediterranean. The Citadel was about 500 years old and in good condition, but it was its location on the Mediterranean that made it a must visit place. The view from there was very similar to what you would get of the Queens's necklace from Nariman point, albeit with not so tall a skyline. As we then drove along the shore, I noticed one very important difference: the road was lined with lots of restaurants overlooking the sea. This is where Mumbai really hasnt capitalized: very few places to dine by the sea. We werent going to miss this opportunity, and we had a lazy late lunch before heading back to Cairo in the evening.

Days 8-11, Sharm el-Shaikh




The next morning we took a flight to Sharm el Shaikh, Egypt's best known beach resort in the Sinai Peninsula on the Red Sea, more particularly on the Gulf of Aqaba. We were staying at Sharks Bay Umbi diving village, located right on a small private beach. We were living in a Bedouin hut, and the deck provided a perfect view of the beach and the nearby Tiran Island. The hotel had its own house reef, full of colorful fishes, and a great beachside bar and restaurant. There was another beachside eating joint in the adjacent hotel, and we had all our lazy meals for these few days between these places: a lot of tahini and babbaganoush, some pizza and pasta, and a lot of different kinds of breads, some pretty close to the Naan back home.




Besides snorkeling a lot in the house reef, we made a snorkeling day trip which took us to nearby interesting places on the Gulf. One of the evenings, we did the ATV desert safari: it was awesome fun driving through the sandy desert, covered in the traditional headgear wrapped around all of the face but the eyes to avoid the sand. During the evening, we visited a local Bedouin encampment, where a lot of curios were on sale.

For New Year eve, we were at the beachside bar, providing us a glimpse of the live entertainment that the hotel had organized close by. It was a memorable way to ring in the new year: a nice bottle of wine by the beach, traditional middle eastern music and good food.

Notwithstanding Jyoti's injury, the trip still ended being great fun. It also ignited the passion in both of us to travel a lot more in the next few months, and explore more countries and cultures.

Turkey

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Jyoti had missed out on a trip to Istanbul (a company offsite) as it was scheduled right around our wedding date. Having got rave reviews of the city, a trip there was on top of her wish list. While flipping through the newspaper in between a couple of meetings, I saw an ad by Aurora travels for a 10 day trip to Turkey. It included all places we wanted to go to, and the price seemed reasonable so I signed up for a trip in Mid-May, when it would just begin to get warm and before the hordes of tourists from Europe and NA descended. Now usually I never take a guided tour, but renting a car seemed cumbersome, so I decided on a bus tour. And thankfully didnt regret it

Day 1: Istanbul

We take an early direct flight to Istanbul (this was Jyoti's first visit to Europe) and check into the hotel by noon. When you visit a place like NY, London, Rome or Bangkok, you know whats in store for you. But Istanbul seemed such an unknown quantity. The place is as exotic as any (besides Tokyo I feel): a eclectic blend of cultural and modern, beautiful mosques everywhere but a secular ethos, magnificent buildings two millenia old and modern shopping centers.

Though a guided tour overall, the first day was free for us to explore the city. Our hotel was situated just off Taksim square, the hub of activity in probably all of Turkey. Reminiscent of Times Square or Piccadilly Circus. "Except that here, centuries-old domes rise above Burger King billboards, and head-scarved girls on cellphones share the sidewalk with Istanbul's growing population of punk rockers." (Frommers). After wandering aimlessly for a bit around the square, we walked down along "Istiklal Caddesi", which was like Broadway, Park and Fifth Avenue put together, lined with places to eat, shop, party, national embassies. En route we passed through Cicek Pasaji, a rococo arcade full of beer halls and fish restaurants, and the Galatasaray fish market.

Istiklal Caddesi then merged onto Galip Dede Caddesi, a narrow, winding and sloping street, full of small book shops and musical instrument stores besides antique shops and eateries. This was as pretty a walk as it gets through a city. We then walked past the Galata tower, a pretty Synagogue and ended up at the Karakoy square. We then crossed the Galata bridge to Sultanahmet (old city) and visited the Spice Market, which was an enchanting interplay or scents and colors.




We then took the 1 hr Bosphorus (the body of water seperating Europe and Asia) cruise, admiring the beautiful waterfront estates and gardens on both sides of the water. Up there with a romantic cruise on the Seine or a speedboat cruise on the Hudson. On the way back to the hotel, we sampled the multifaceted public transport system of the city. We took a tram back to Karakoy square, then the underground "Tunel", and then the "Nostalgic Tramway" which ran along the length of Istiklal Caddesi. Dinner was awesome hummus, falafel and bean soup at a roadside cafe.


Day 2: Istanbul guided tour



This morning we met Hussein, who would be our tour guide for the rest of the tour.
The tour mainly consisted of Kiwis and Aussies, mostly in their fifties or older. The plan of the day was to check out the top sites in Sultanehmat. We started off at the Hippodrome, a public arena which hosted Roman, Byzantine and then Ottoman celebrations. Next was Sultanehmet (Blue) Mosque, one of the oldest and most well known mosques, now converted to a musuem due to the secular constitution of Turkey.
It is known as the Blue Mosque due to the blue tiles adorning its interior. We then visited the Topkapi Palace, the royal residence of the Ottoman Sultans. The palace had beautiful manicured gardens and one got a great bird's eye view of Istanbul, dominated by the towering minarets of old mosques around town. The room which contained the royal jewels was the most impressive, eliciting a lot of ooh and aahs from the women.




We then had a lunch break. I skipped the meal and instead went to the Yerbatan Sarnici, the underground cisterns built by the Romans supported by hundreds of marble columns. The highlight of the day however was the Ayasofya, a Byzantine cathedral, then a mosque, now a museum. Its dome was probably just as big as that of St pauls in the Vatican. After all this architectural overload, it was time for shopping at the Grand Bazaar, which certainly lived upto its name. Right outside the bazaar, we bought a set of seven interlaced Turkish lamps, which currently is the piece de resistance in my room. We then went to the rooftop bar at the Pierre Loti, where I tried "Raki", the Turkish national drink made of anise. Very very strong. You sip a bit of raki, then drink some water and repeat.At the end of the day, we were too tired to explore any nightlife, and just had a quiet dinner at Taksim square.

Day 3: Ankara, onto Cappadocia



We crossed over the Bosphorus to the Asia side of the country and headed to the capital, Ankara, which is much smaller than Istanbul. At Ankara, we visited the Mausoleum of Mustafa Kamal "Ataturk" (father of the Turks), a World War era military man who then became the leader of the secular Turkey. Cant think of too many people who single handedly shaped the destiny of their country for the better. He made Turkey into a secular republic, worked for women's rights, developed infrastructure and invested in education of the masses. The Mausoleum was perched atop a hill providing a commanding view of the city. On our arrival at Cappadocia, we checked into our cosy cave hotel (the rest of the group was staying in a more expensive and swanky hotel, but we were happy to stay in a more authentic family run place). The owner of the place, a charming old gentleman, cooked us a delicious veg meal.


Day 4: Cappadocia



Early morning wake up for a balloon ride. I had taken one 15 years back in San Diego, for Jyoti it was a first. Quite an experience as dozens of balloons soared over Cappadocia's lunar landscape.




After the balloon ride, we had breakfast and then proceeded to visit the Goreme open air museum, consisting of cave churches and living quarters for the monks. Some of the Byzantine frescoes dating back to 4th Century AD were extremely well preserved. Thereafter we visited the Kaymakli underground city, inhabited around the 1st century AD. It was built underground, with its own water supply, sanitation etc. in order to save persecution from the Romans. It went as deep as 5 storeys underground.

We had lunch at a local restaurant. Tasted Ayran, a local drink, very close to butter milk. Also tried the Turkish pizza (pide), and the Gozleme, a pancake filled with potatoes, cheese or spinach. After lunch we visited the "fairy" chimneys, and then proceeded to the Turkish Carpet Museum, run by the Government. We saw 1000 knots per square inch silk carpets that takes a person a decade or more to make!! Some of the them were more than a 100,000 Euros!!




Back at the hotel, we chilled out at the sitout with a glass of wine, with a gorgeous view of rock formations as the sun went down!


Day 5: Konya, Pamukkale



After breakfast, we left for Konya. En route we stopped at a medieval Caravenserai, with its infrastructure for water, cooking and storage, stables for the horses and resting areas for tired travellers. Konya is the birthplace of the founder of Mevlevi Order (whirling dervishes), the Sufi mystic Jalaluddin Rumi. We visited his Mausoleum, now converted to a museum, to get a glimpse of the Sufi culture. I have read some of Rumi's poetry and it indeed was a solemn moment for me to be visiting this place. We reached Pamukkale in the evening, checked into our spa hotel and spend the evening in the hot water baths.


Day 6: Hierapolis, Pamukkale, Temple of Artemis

In the morning, we checked out of the hotel and headed to Hierapolis, an ancient Greco Roman city (difficult to believe, but there is less Rome in Rome and less Greece in Greece than Turkey). We saw the necropolis and the Roman baths, which would be close to the entrance in order for travellers to freshen up before entering the city.




The Hierapolis ended close to the beautiful calcite formations of Pamukkale, which were the source of the hot water springs we had back at the hotel. Behind the calcite formations was a huge amphitheater, part of the Hierapolis complex. We then drove towards Kusadasi on the Aegean Sea. En route, we stopped at the remnants of the Temple of Artemis, One of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World. There is just one solitary pillar still standing and it takes some imagination to realize what an achievement of architecture this place would have been in that era. The hotel at Kusadasi was situated by the sea and afforded a very nice view.


Day 7: House of Virgin Mary, Ephesus



The next morning we headed to the House of Virgin Mary in nearby Selcuk. This is where she is supposed to have spent her last days after her flight from the Middle East. We then headed to Ephesus, first a Greek city and then the third largest Roman city after Rome and Istanbul. The most impressive monument within the complex was the Library, I think the largest in the world at one time after the Alexandria library. As with most Roman cities, there was an impressive amphitheater, where one of the group members enchanted us with a rendition.




We saw a sculpture of Nike, the Goddess of Athletics: the Nike swoosh was inspired by this pose of Nike suggesting energy and agility. Another interesting building was the communal lavatory, where the Romans discussed politics while performing their daily chores.

In the afternoon, we visited a Silk leather factory. The visit kicked off with a fashion show, and thereafter the store manager impressed us with a demonstration of properties of silk leather: superlight, superthin, waterproof, fireproof etc etc. In the evening we went for a walk along the waterfront, and did some clothes shopping.


Day 8: Pergamon, Troy, Canakkale



We checked out after breakfast and headed to the Greek city of Pergamon, perched atop a hill with a commanding view of the adjacent countryside. Not much remains of the city, except some imposing rows of columns. After Pergamon, we headed to the ancient city of Troy. Archaelogists have divided the history of Troy in some nine broad periods, Troy I to Troy IX. Troy was destroyed and rebuilt multiple times (fire / invasion etc) and thus in the same spot you can see how a newer version was built over an older one. From Troy, we headed to Canakkale, on Dardanelle Strait. Our modern 5 star hotel had a sweeping view of the water and of the Gallipolli Peninsula beyond.

Day 9: Gallipoli, back to Istanbul



The battle of Gallipoli was one of the key battles in World War I, as the Allied forces (Britain, Australia, NZ, France) battled the Ottoman Empire, siding with the Germans. A prolonged event, it remains the predominant military event in ANZAC history. The ANZAC soldiers won worldwide admiration for their tenacity and to this date, visiting Gallipoli for Aussies and Kiwis is like a pilgrimage. We visited various sites such as ANZAC cove, WWI trenches, and were narrated heartwarming tales of how the warfare was carried out with a lot of dignity, both from the Allied and the Turkish site. We then drove back to Istanbul to end the guided tour.


Day 10: Shopping in Istanbul, back home

We did some shopping on Istiklal Caddesi before heading to the airport to catch our flight back home.

Uttaranchal (April 2011)

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A trip to Uttaranchal offers something for everyone: trekking and rafting for the adventurous, pilgrimages for the devout, Tiger safari for the wildlife enthusiasts and R&R in the mountains for the exhausted. Our trip in April 2011 to the region was just the break from the Mumbai heat that we needed

Day 1: Fly to Delhi, train to Haridwar
We flew into Delhi in the evening and having some time to spare before our train to Haridwar, we went for dinner to Bukhara, ITC Maurya's signature restaurant that has been rated as India;s best for quite a few years. While the famed Daal Bukhara was similar to what you get at other places, say Peshawari in Mumbai, the Onion Kulcha and then the Phirni would count as the best I've had. We then headed to New Delhi station to board the Dehradun train. One of our fellow passengers helped to book a cab to pick us up at the station the next morning

Day 2: The banks of the ganga
Our train chugged into Haridwar at 4 am. After having a nice chai by a roadside stall, we headed towards our camp. En route we passed through Rajaji national park, and had to spend a half hour outside its gates as Elephant crossings overnight necessitate that the park is closed dusk to dawn. The road was mostly along the Ganga valley. Even for the unbeliever, the Gangetic banks before it hits the plains, is unlike any other place of earth: the beautiful water, small towns every few miles built around the ashrams, dharamshalas for the devotees, foreigners dressed in Sannyasi attire who have made India their home. After breakfast at the camp, we drove to Laxmanjhula, walked across the cantilever bridge to the other bank, and drove upstream to Shivpuri, where the rafting trip started. The rapids such as Roller Coaster, Three Blind Mice, Golf Course, were exhilirating. The water was too cold for me to body surf, but Jyoti had a jolly good time taking a dip. I did gather enough courage to do a cliff dive though.



We were back at the camp in time for lunch, and after a snooze, attended the Aarti at Ramjhula in the evening, now considered as to be nicer than the one at Haridwar.


Day 3: Onto Mussoorie
After breakfast, we headed towards Mussoorie via Dehradun. En route we stopped at Sahastradhara, where one can take a dip in sulphur springs, considered to have medicinal properties. Too cold for me though! There are also some caves where it is supposed Dronacharya used to live. As we made the ascent towards Mussoorie, I realized why it is called the Queen of the Hills: perched atop a cliff, with a view of the Doon valley to the south and the himalayas (gangotri, yamunotri, kedarnath and badrinath peaks) to the north, dotted with British era heritage properties and some of the best schools in the country. All this means it is very crowded too, especially Mall Road, the hub of shopping and eating. We were staying at the Padmini Niwas, well known for its Gujarati food. Our room was in the heritage wing, much nicer than the ones in the Annexe part of the building.



In the evening we took a stroll along the picturesque Camelback Road. This is one of the best walks I have encountered. The walk is quite secluded, quite opposite to the humdrum of Mall road. The slopes are dotted with British era bungalows, and across the valley one can see the snowcapped Himalayas. The name Camelback road comes from a rock formation that can be spotted through a clearing in the foliage. Thereafter we took a trolley to the highest point in town, where there was a carnival on of sorts (the boisterous side of Mussoorie). Too often I hear the complain that tourist places in India are very crowded, but I realized then that for every Mall Road, there is a Camelback road: one has to make the effort to walk a bit and discard the shopping instinct.



Day 4: Snuggled up in bed

We visited the Country Garden in the morning, which had a toy train and a small bond with duck shaped paddle boats, reminiscent of vacations as a boy. Lunch was at Nirulas (how we both hate and love to have a well known chain while on vacation!). We then picked up a few books at the local book store. I picked up a copy of Ruskin Bond's "Time Stops at Shamli and Other Stories", and then the shopkeeper replaced it with an autographed book. These little unexpected things when you travel make it more special. It started pouring and got quite chilly by late morning, we ordered a room heater and spent most of the day reading.


Day 5: Kampty Falls



The rough weather continued today as well, but we decided to get out for a bit and headed to Kampty Falls, considered one of the best in the region. It wasnt a bad sight, and would be much nicer post rains: the dozens of chaiwallahs and stores around was an eyesore though and for me, they have ruined the place. Back in Mussoorie, we had dinner and then headed to Dehradun station for our overnight train to Kathgodam

Day 6: Bhimtal, Naukachiatal, Mukteshwar

At Kathgodam station, we hired an Alto cab for the next four days we were in the Kumaon region. Half an hours' drive from Kathgodam is the biggest lake in the region, Bhimtal. As the name suggests, there is a temple dedicated to Bhim near the lake. The surrounding hills are barren though and there is a lot of construction activity around, which doesnt make for a great view. We had a nice Maggi breakfast by the lake and got a tour in a rowboat.



More scenic is the closeby Naukachital (meaning the lake with nine corners), which has little habitation around. We took a paddle boat round the lake for a bit, and then drove on to Mukteshwar. We were staying at the Mountain Trail, which had nice views, good food and service, and a well stacked library, which served us well as it poured all afternoon and we stayed indoors.

Day 7: Mukteshwar Temple, Ranikhet

Our cab guy had taken the previous day's money, and sure enough, didnt show up today. Moral of the story: always keep a certain amount unpaid. After spending an hour to find a replacement cab, we visited the Mukteshwar temple. A local guide showed us around and introduced us to the plants and trees in the area. There was some rappelling and rock climbing going on at the adjacent overhanging cliffs, also called chauli-ki-jali. We then drove onto Ranikhet: if there was a dreary mountain road, it would be this: bad stretches of road, barren landscape, no views. I was beginning to wonder why was Ranikhet so sought after. I got my answer soon as the barren land gave way to gorgeous pine forest. We passed the picturesque cantonment area onto our hotel, the Holm Farm.



One of the best places I have stayed at. 100+ year property, few rooms, all differently designed (ours was the best, the Elizabeth suite), view of Trishul and Nandadevi from each room, a cliffside tennis court, owner's bungalow in the adjacent plot, 2 kilometres of unpaved road leading to the farm. Perfect place to laze around, and enjoy the food and views. Or if you want some activity, as I did, trek up the Chaubatia garden, through a secluded path through the forests.

Day 8: Gethia



We left Ranikhet after breakfast and reached Gethia, a small town half an hour from Nainital, and checked into the Two Chimneys Lodge, recently covered by Outlook Traveler as the best new lodge in the Himalayas. And I'd say rightly so. The place was on the main road, and the views nothing to write home about, but the property scored very high on aesthetics. Meals were by the pool, evening beer on the machan. All rooms had a distinct feel to it, with names like "study", "goat shed" etc. We had got an upgrade to a suite. I'd rate the Holm Farm higher due to the view and location, but this one was Jyoti's favorite. And still is, inspite of the fact that we encountered a snake (I think it was a cobra) while chilling out at "Lands end", a sit out by the cliff. A vacation is supposed to mean no television (dont watch it in any case), but I couldnt miss Sachin's only IPL century. For a moment, I'd rather have been in Mumbai (Wankhede) than Kumaon. There wasnt much to do in the area: we lazed around, did some reading, played some scrabble.

Day 9: Nainital, onto Corbett



Post breakfast, we drove on to Nainital. Crowded again, but still very pretty. I'd say a lot of new hill stations have come up in the past few years, but the old favorites, though getting overcrowded, are definitely prettier if only you could visit in the slow season. We did some rowing on the lake and then headed to Corbett national park. The descent from Nainital towards Kaladhungi and then driving through the sal forests towards Ramnagar was awesome.


Day 10: Safari time

We had booked well in advance to be on the Dhikala (the best of the zones in the park) morning safari. We saw a herd of 10-12 elephants, but no luck with the tiger though. The canter took us deep into the jungle upto the Dhikala Forest House (this is the place to stay to really enjoy the forest and for the best chance of sighting early morning or close to sunset) and back. It didnt seem that the guides were even trying to hear calls or track footprints. In the evening we took a jeep safari to the Durgadevi zone. I'd say this is a scam. In 2 hours, we barely saw 3-4 deer. I cant imagine there would be tigers in that zone. We saw dozens of sambhar, barking deers, spotted door on the main highway back from the safari. While not the best place to spot a tiger, the Corbett jungle is a treat in itself. We then headed to Ramnagar station to board our train to Delhi, and then took the early flight back home to Bombay, reaching in time for office.

If only I could venture out like this every alternate month!

Europe

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Never have we planned a trip so meticulously as this one. You dont go to Europe everyday, and there was so much so see that it was heartbreaking to leave out some of the best cities in the world, especially London and Amsterdam from our itinerary. But after much deliberation, we came up with our plan: start off in Paris (how can one leave Paris out??!!), then spend a few days in Switzerland, followed by a week in Italy, a couple of days in Austria and have some beer at Oktoberfest on the way back home. It has taken me almost nine months to get around to writing about the trip, but it still feels like I was there just yesterday.

Day 1: Paris

Our departing flight from Mumbai landed at Frankfurt early in the morning (we choose Frankfurt as there were cheap direct flights and car rentals easily available), and having rented out a Ford Focus station wagon, we drove straight onto Paris (about 6 hours), taking us past gorgeous German and French countryside dotted with tiny villages and grand Chateaus and Castles. We check in at about lunch time at our hotel at Ivry Sur Seine on the outskirts of Paris, changed quickly and took the train straight to Montmarte, the nucleus of the art scene in Paris.



Our first stop was the Sacre Cour Basilica, about a 100 years old. It was located at the highest point in Paris. The day was clear and we had a fantastic bird's eye view of the city from there. We then walked around the Montmarte area, filled with chic Parisian cafes and art galleries. We passed by the Salvador Dali museum, containing 300 masterpieces of the Surrealist painter, but didnt quite have the time to venture in. It would have been great to have someone with us who could tell us that Monet visited this tavern, and Renoir lived here, but nevertheless the vibrancy of the place indicated its importance in the history or art. We knew one of Picasso's homes was around, but could not quite locate it.

Walking through the narrow, cobblestoned streets, we ended up at the Moulin Rouge, inarguably the world's most famous and opulent cabaret show. Visiting this one too wasnt on the plan. It was located on the Boulevard de Clichy, a gigantic tourist trap, full or pornographers and hustlers trying to lure customers into sex joints.

After having a mid afternoon snack at guess what Burger King of all places, we headed to the Place de la Bastille, the birthplace of the French Revolution when a mob attacked the Bastille prison here more than 200 years back. A short walk from there was the Place Du Vosges, Paris' oldest square, around 400 years old and once its most fashonable. It was around dusk by then and there were many locals there, indulging in the quintessential Parisian pastime: reading a book over a glass of wine in the lawns.



Towards sundown, we walked up at the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral, whose exterior and facade can probably be considered the crowning glory of Gothic architecture. The more you look at it, the more it grows on you.




The rest of the evening we spent walking along the Quays of the Seine, dotted with buildings each prettier than the previous one. There were probably a dozen small bridges spanning the river, and romantic couples were enjoying cruises on the river. One of the bridges was Pont Neuf, probably the most romantic spot in the city, with awesome views of the river on both sides, and magnificent buildings all around bathed in artificial light.


Day 2: Louvre, Champs Elysses, Eiffel



We spend the first half of the day at the Louvre: I got in line early for the tickets while the gang has a lazy Parisian breakfast. Never have I seen (not even the Met in NYC), nor do I expect to, see more treasures under one roof, spanning the history of humankind. There was so much to see it would have taken days just to even glance through all the exhibits, so we focussed only on the Masterpieces mentioned in the brochure: the Mona Lisa, the Dutch masters Rembrandt and Vermeer, the Venus of Lido, the masterpieces of Corot, Poussin and Gericault. We had taken the audio guide: I would highly recommend it. Before the trip, I had reread (and Jyoti read for the first time) "The Story of Art". It provided us great context with which we could appreciate the greatness of the works that lay before us.



After a sumptuous meal at the Louvre, we walked past the Place de la Concorde on the Champs Elysses towards the Arc du Triomphe. The first half of the stretch was lined with gardens, overflowing with tourists walking and locals chilling out. The second half was full of shopping: every well known brand seemed to have a showroom here, and why not!




Towards dusk, we headed to the Eiffel Tower. Since we had timed tickets, we did not have to be in queue. Once dark, the view was simply breathtaking. On one side was the Seine, on another a garden where a live show was going on. All the great monuments could be seen in the distance: the Basilica of Sacre Cour, the Notre Dame etc. Paris certainly is one of the prettiest, if not THE prettiest, cities in the world.

On the way back to the hotel, we had a bit of excitement as we boarded an express train, which skipped our station and took us to the outer zones of Paris, while we had tickets only for the inner zones. We got a lot of help from one of the locals, who took a lot of pain to ensure that we figured out the right train to take us back home. No trip is memorable until something goes wrong and you are helped by your fellow commuter.

This would be all that we could see in Paris. There was so much more to do: visit the museums (Musee Rodin, Museum of Modern Art and plenty plenty more), see the Moulin Rouge, dine by the Seine, and generally walk around. But that would have to wait for another trip!

Day 3: Versailles, Lausanne



In the morning we headed to the Chateau de Versailles, probably the most magnificent royal residences I have ever seen. It was earlier a hunting lodge, expanded into its current magnificence during the reign of Louis XIV in the 17th century. The weather wasnt the best, so we bought tickets only for the Palace: on a clear day, a visit to the gardens is also a must. There was room after room, all meant for the King and Queen, full of beautiful paintings, ceiling frescoes, chandeliers, busts of Roman legends and to provide a striking balance, every room had an installation of contemporary art by the Japanese master Murakami.

Thereafter, we headed towards Switzerland. It was our first tryst with the Alps and its little hamlets as we crossed over from the French side to the Swiss. It is amazing how easy it is to cross over from one Eurozone country to another. It reminded me of the strained relationship India has with a couple of its neighbors.




We were running a little earlier than expected, and instead of heading straight to Fribourg (a lesser known but bustling student town) for our night halt, we took a small detour towards Lausanne, located on Lake Geneva. It was a Sunday and the town was completely deserted. We thus headed straight to the Lausanne Cathedral, built in the 13th Century and one of the finest examples of the Gothic style. Right round the corner was the edge of the Lake, though with the weather quite cloudy, we couldnt see much.


Day 4: Bern, Pilatus, Lucerne



One place that not too many Indians visit, but I highly recommend for its architecture, would be the capital city of Bern,a UNESCO World Heritage site
and one of the oldest cities in Switzerland. The weather was clear as we strolled through the city, admiring the hotels, Government buildings, breweries and bank offices, all decked up with flowers. At the town square, we ran into a festive farmer's market. The setting was perfect: the sun was out, there were gorgeous buildings all around and the market, overflowing with cheeses, fruits, bread, drinks and ice creams and women dressed in Dirndls and men in Lederhousens, was a feast for the senses.





We then headed Southeast bypassing Lucerne and onto Alpnachstad, which according to Jyoti, was the prettiest little village she has seen. From there, we took the Pilatus Railway, the world's steepest cogwheel railway with a gradient as high as 48 degrees) to the top of Mount Pilatus, about 2,100 meters above sea level. The scenery and weather seemed to change every minute as we ascended, leaving the rolling countryside behind to enter rocky terrain. I'd say there are many mountain ranges in the world that are as breathtaking, if not more, as the Swiss Alps. But the Swiss make it more accessible by building these railways and funiculars right to the top. If you are adventurous, have time and are fit, I'd say head to the Himalayas. Else not much beats the combination of mountainous beauty and convenience of the Swiss Alps.





After descending from Pilatus, we headed back to Lucerne (situated on, no prizes for guessing, Lake Lucerne) and spent the evening at visiting its churches, the Lion monument, the Chapel Bridge (one of the oldest in Europe, and the most photographed place in Switzerland). We then drove through some quintessential Swiss countryside as the sun was going down, along narrow winding roads to the picturesque village of Interlaken (also referred by some as "India"-laken for the predominance of Indian tourists)

Our cosy Rugenpark BandB, run had a splendid view of the Jungfrau mountain. Ursula, who owned and ran the place, was extremely efficient and fit: carrying heavy luggage, making breakfast, cleaning rooms, guiding guests, she did it all. We had planned to go to Jungfrau the next day, but she suggested we go to Schilhorn instead as it had better views (Jungfrau would have a lot more snow)


Day 5: Schilthorn




Early in the morning, we took the funicular to the top of Mt. Schilthorn, about 3000 meters high. we had to take a series of cable cars which put together make it one of the longest cable car journeys in the world. The mountain shot to fame when the James Bond movie, On Her Majesty's Secret Service, was shot there. It was a clear day, and we got a panoramic view of the surrounding Bernese Oberland, the central part of the country containing some of its tallest peaks, including the Jungfrau mountain which is over 4000 meters. It had snowed the day before so the observatory was covered in a sheet of spotless white.

On our descent from Schilthorn, we stopped at the car-free town of Murren, one of the most scenic hamlets I have seen. We then proceeded to the Trummelbach falls, a series of 9 cascades. Since this is Switzerland, there was an elevator which took us to the top from where one can walk down through each cascade. We got back to Interlaken around lunchtime, and we had a hearty meal of the best cheese fondue and rosti I've had. This was our first lazy, elaborate meal as so far we had been picking up sandwiches and salads, or gorging on some of the packed food we have brought from home. The main street in Interlaken lay before us, a meadow beyond and snow capped mountains in the distance!! A little tired after all the driving and the early morning starts for the past few days, Atit and I had a nice afternoon nap while the girls went for some shopping.

Day 6: San Bernardino Pass, Via Mala, Pisa



Time to say goodbye to the incomparable Swiss countryside to head to Italy. We took the scenic San Bernardino pass, rated by some as the best drive in Switzerland: curving roads, meadows, chalets perched on cliffs, shimmering lakes. En route, we stopped at the Via Mala, a deep gorge through which a centuries old footpath meandered across the pass. As we headed out of the Alps and into Tuscany, there was a stark change in the scenery change from Alpine to Mediterranean. And so was the difference in driving styles, with tailgating and occasional honking being the norm.



We arrived at the leaning tower by the evening. Built in the 13th and 14th century, the tower is 55 meters tall, and has a tilt of 4 degrees (it was 5.5 degrees before some restoration a decade ago). While its claim to fame is its tilt, nevertheless it is a magnificent building, and so is the adjacent cathedral, whose bell tower it is.
There was quite a wait to climb the tower, so we couldnt make it to the top. From Pisa, an hour's drive took us to Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance. Our cosy hotel Locanda dei Poeti, was situated in the heart of the old town, each room having its unique flavor. The manager, a gregarious local, told us of all the places to see and the local places to eat. We had a sumptuous Italian dinner at one of the recommended places situated on the curb of a small square full of restaurants.



Day 7: Firenze!!



A day of cultural overload as we walk and walk and walk through the cobblestone roads of Florence. To kick off, I made the ascent up the 500 odd steps of the
Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, better known as the the Florence Cathedral, or simply the "Duomo". The work of the dome was completed in the 15th century by Brunelleschi, the pioneer of Renaissance architecture. A panoramic view of all of Florence could be enjoyed from the top. We then visited about half a basilicas, such as Santissima Annunziata, Santa Croce, Santa Maria Novella and San Lorenzo. All of these housed masterpieces of immortal artists such as Donatello and Giotto. We visited a vibrant street market surrounding the San Lorenzo, and picked up a leather bag for Jyoti. Close to the basilica of Santa Maria Novella was the namesake pharmacy, which was housed in a museum. We came across many notable buildings, the most well known being Palazzo Medici, the erstwhile residence of the House of Medici family, the greatest patrons of the Renaissance.

For lunch, we headed for a sandwich at Fratellini (meaning little brothers), with one brother serving the wine and collecting the money, and the other making the sandwich. The goat cheese and sundried tomato sandwich was the best I've ever had (and I am not one to use superlatives easily! but such were the places we were visiting). Post lunch, we headed to the Uffizi Gallery (timed tickets, skipped the queue again!!), the mecca for Renaissance art lovers. Its not as well organized as the Louvre, and its collection restricted only to the Renaissance period, this one was for the Connoisseur and not the laypeople like us, but nevertheless an experience not to be missed.



In the evening, we walked towards Ponte Vecchio, probably the most famous bridge in Italy after the Rialto in Venice (more about that later). The play of colors as "the Tuscan Sun" illuminated the reds, oranges and yellows, and all shades in between, was quintessential Florence.. Dinner and wine (and wine was cheaper than water in Italy!) again at one of the neighborhood favorites to end a rewarding day.


Day 8: Chianti, Amalfi Coast



We left Florence in the am and drove south on the SR222, into the heart of the Chianti wine country. There were some wine shops and tasting rooms on the way, but it was too early. We stopped for breakfast in the pretty town of Greve in Chianti, where we were recommended by an Italian lady (lives in the US, spends weeks every year in Tuscany enjoying the wine!! what a life!!) to head to the nearby town of Greti, and visit the Santo Stefano vineyards. It was such a small place no one spoke English. I somehow managed to eke out a few Spanish words (a little like Italian, gets the broad message across) to convey our desire to visit the vineyards and factory, and taste some wine..




We then headed South, past Rome and Naples onto Salerno, where the famed Amalfi Coast Drive starts. As Rick Steve states on his website, "The Amalfi Coast offers one of the world's great bus rides: The coastal trip from Sorrento to Salerno will leave your mouth open and your film exposed. You'll gain respect for the Italian engineers who built the road — and even more respect for the bus drivers who drive it. As you hyperventilate, notice how the Mediterranean, a sheer 500-foot drop below, twinkles". The drive certainly was one of the most scenic ones I have taken (that is, when I managed to take my eyes off the road and look at the Mediterranean) and also the most dangerous (quite a few close shaves with oncoming buses). We drove past the pretty sea side town of Amalfi, then drove up a steep incline to Ravello, and then headed to Positano, perched on the edge of a cliff. We had a memorable dinner by a curbside restaurant, enjoying a beautiful sunset, and then drove to our hotel in the nearby town of Sorrento, the gateway to Capri.


Day 9: Capri



We took a day trip by boat to the famous island of Capri. And no, we didnt go to see the Blue Grotto there as we were told by quite a few that it is a tourist trap and even if one is lucky enough to be there on a sunny day (which it quite wasnt), the experience is marred by troublesome boatmen.




Our boat dropped us off at the Marina Grande, from where we took a funicular to the top of Capri town. It afforded gorgerous views of the entire island, the Mediterranean beyond, and the mainland in the distance. The cobblestoned streets were lined with chic boutique hotels, designer villas and fancy shops. We visited a 14 century monastery, Certosa di San Giacomo. Not the most interesting building you would see in Italy, but worth a walkthrough. We were back in Sorrento by lunchtime and then drove off to Rome. For dinner we visited a local restaurant offering great fish, but we ordered our usual fare of margarita and some pasta. For me this was the best pizza I had on this trip (and came back for it the next day too!)


Day 10. Rome



Surely, all roads ought to lead to Rome. You have to see this place once in your life. Every nook and corner of the city begs you to stop and admire the magnificent architecture all around. Our first stop in the am was, as would be the case with most visitors, the Colosseum. I doubt that modern stadium, be it any sport, could provide the atmosphere and thrill like this place. This was the largest amphitheater of the Empire and probably its greatest piece of architecture and engineering, capable of seating 50,000 spectators. We then headed to the Palatine Hill, the centermost of the seven hills of Rome where the rich and powerful in the Empire had their homes. Adjacent is the Roman Forum, a maze of buildings of all kinds, where as the name suggests, public meetings were held and famous orators would speak. The place looks like a bit of a mess, but a little imagination can give one a glimpse of the grandeur that was Rome.






Post lunch (yet another roadside local favorite serving yummy pizzas), we headed to the Piazza Navona, Rome's liveliest square and one of the most famous in the world. It has three fountains, two close to the sides and the biggest and most impressive one, called the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, in the center. Our next stop was the Pantheon, built as a Roman temple and then consecrated as a church. Trevi fountain was next on the list, surely the prettiest fountain in Rome, arguably one of the finest in the world. Many films have featured it, as well as the next place we visited, the Scalinata di Spagna (Spanish Steps). These steps join the Piazza di Spagna with the church of Trinita dei Monti. Needless to say, every place we visited was overflowing with people, though they were all so impressive I couldnt say that detracted in any way from the beauty. The only thing that could have made Rome any more magnificent than it already is (if at all it is possible) would be a riverfront (there is the Tiber, but not much water to speak of) or the seashore. This is one of the rare great cities of the world which has neither. At the end of it all, we were tired, really tired.


Day 11. The Vatican and its museums



Today would be dedicated to the Vatican. We began our visit with the Vatican museums (after the Louvre, this one would be the second I would recommend). There was plenty to see, but Michalengelo's Sistine Chapel is alone worth the trip. The greatest achievement of one of the greatest painter and sculptor the world has seen, it is impossible to understand the scale and impact of this work of art in a picture. My personal favorite was one of the paintings in one of the Raphael rooms, where the Greek philosophers (Aristotle, Plato etc) and Renaissance masters (Da Vinci, Michelangelo) are portrayed in the same setting, and is a celebration of the respect that classical Greek philosophers, and in fact all things Greek were held during the Renaissance.




After the Museum tour, we visited St Paul's Cathedral, the epicenter of Roman Catholicism in the world. A 500 step ascent took me to the top of the cupola, providing one of the finest views in all of Rome. When you go inside the Cathedral, you feel so humbled at the size and scope of this magnificent building. It was useless taking pictures in there: few camera lenses could do this place justice.

Early evening was reserved for shopping. No intention of visiting any of the designer stores, but we picked up handbags and shoes from some of the local stores.
Be careful: check if it is Made in Italy and not China!


Day 12. Venezia



Our GPS conked off on the way to Venice. Thankfully, as a backup, we were carrying printouts of google maps. Never depend too much on technology! After checking into our hotel in Venice Mestre (a dull industrial town, works as a gateway to the real Venice)on the mainland, we took a bus to Piazzale Roma, the last point upto where cars and buses can go. I had last visited Venice in Feb 2007 during the Carnival: it was loud and boisterous and extremely crowded then. Now Venice is never really quiet, but this time around, it was much more sedate. We took the vaporetto (the Venetian public boat) which meandered through the length Grand Canal (the coronary artery of the city), surrounded by beautiful buildings on both sides. We got off at the Piazza San Marco stop, the most visited part of Venice. The area consists of the Basilica di San Marco, its "Campanile" (the bell tower, the tallest structure in Venice), the huge Saint Marks Square (i.e. "Piazza San Marco") and the magnificent Doges Palace, one of the most important buildings of the post Renaissance area.

After having a pizza by the slice lunch, we visited a couple of churches in the area, the Chiesa San Zaccaria and the Chiesa della Salute. They had a lot of Renaissance art works, including masterpieces by Titian and Giorgione, who were next only to Raphael, da Vinci and Michelangelo during that time.



In the evening, we took a Gondola right through the canals, passing under the bridge of sighs (when you are right under the bridge, you should kiss your sweetheart and wish something) and passing through celebrity homes, including Casanova. After that we walked around, window shopping a little and ended up at the Rialto bridge for dinner, surely one of the most romantic settings in the world.



Day 13. More Venezia, Murano

We had taken a two day vaporetto pass. This morning we headed to the Jewish quarter of Cannaregio. I am unable to describe it, but the place had a different feel and charm than the rest of Venice. We then headed to the island of Murano, famous for its glass artifacts. Time to get the credit card out. Jyoti bought a few necklaces, for herself, her mom and aunt. If you hate shopping (and close to half of the world does), you can just walk around the town, check out some churches, admire the canals and photograph the numerous small bridges.

Post lunch, we were back in Venice. We then just aimlessly walked around town for a bit. Then we took a break at a cafe next to the Basilica de Santo Giovanni. Outside the basilica stood a sculpture of Colleoni astride his horse, made by Verocchio, who was Leonardo Da Vinci's master. A canal passed by, with a couple of bridges over it. It was a perfect setting to enjoy some house wine. For dinner we headed again to the Rialto bridge: for a different view, we chose a restaurant on the other side of the Grand Canal.


Day 14. Innsbruck



Bidding Adieu to Venice, we drove through the imposing Italian Dolomites mountain range and crossed into Austria and onto Patsch ( a small village some 10 kms away from Innsbruck) town with barely a few hundred inhabitants. Patsch was a quintessential Austrian hamlet: dotted with meadows full of grazing cattle, the church steeple, traditional chalets etc. Our B&B provided an expansive view of the meadows and snow clad mountains in the distance.



After checking into the B&B, we headed to Schloss Ambras (Schloss meaning castle) on the outskirts of Innsbruck town, perched atop a hill. We figured it was too expensive to visit after all that we saw in France and Italy,but the lunch we had at the garden cafe there was probably had the best of the trip. We then drove into the town center and took a walk around. The premier attraction was the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof), built in the 15th century comprising of about 2,500 fire-gilded copper tiles. Honestly, I couldnt figure what the fuss was all about. We gave the Swarovski museum, one of the other top attractions, a miss, but visited the the Swarowski store in town. We took a quiet stroll on the river Inn before heading back to the B&B for a delicious dinner of soup and a concoction of noodles and vegetables. We certainly had not planned on getting great veggie food in Austria.


Day 15. Salzburg



A couple of hours drive took us from Austria into Germany and then back in to Austria to Salzburg, which derives its name from the Salzach river it is situated on. Quite amazing how Salzburg has developed itself into a world famous tourist destination on the basis of its most famous sons: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Its other claim to fame is that the timeless classic, The Sound of Music, was shot here. The town center, with its baroque architecture, is one of the best preserved town centers in the German speaking world and is a UNESCO world heritage site. The best part of town is the "Getreidegasse", a long narrow street in the center of town, famous for its old style signs of professions outside each store. Located on this street is the birthplace of Mozart, a must visit, with the kitchen maintained in its original form, and the other rooms being converted to a museum.

At one end of the street was the Salzburg Cathedral, considered one of the finest in Europe, but it was closed due to an ongoing service. There was a local version of the Oktoberfest in full swing in its vicinity.



In the evening, we took a drive to the Salzkammergut Lake District, a world heritage site for its combination of scenic beauty and castles. A two lane, winding road from Salzburg takes you to area steeped in beauty and tradition. We first stopped at Fuschl Am See (See meaning Lake) and then drove on to the town of St Gilgen, where we found a nice hotel right on the bank of the WolfgangSee. Perfect place to enjoy a glass of wine! Little wonder this part of the world gave rise to the genius of Mozart.


Day 16: Oktoberfest



We begin our long drive back to Frankfurt for the last leg of the trip. But Munich is on the way and we are in time for the biggest party in the world: the Oktoberfest, which has about 5 million people attending every year. We park our car in the suburb of Messe Munchen, and from there take the train to Theresienwiese, the venue for the fest. Only beer brewed in the borders of the City of Munich is allowed at the fest. Servings are 1 liter mugs costing 9 Euros apiece.

We tried hard to get into one of the tents, but there was no chance without reservations. Beer however was freely flowing outside the tents as well, and in just a couple of mugs (though it probably contains alcohol equivalent to 8-10 pints of Heineken), I was in a happy mood, singing "Ein Prosit" (kind of the anthem for the fest) whenever it was being played at regular intervals


Day 17: Adieu

All of us are really depressed as we board the flight back to Mumbai. All of us had our favorite places, preferred country, but one thing all four of us agreed on: there aint no place like Europe to visit.